I was thinking about buying a Mitsubishi Eclipse for my wife.  
I was hoping that somebody out here could educate me a little bit
into the options that were available during the 1992 model year.
Specifically, what engines were available and what were the horsepower
and 0-60 ratings on these engines (I may drive it every now and then).

Thanks in advance,

Chris
cmatt…@pcocd2.intel.com
.

In article d…@bruce.uncg.edu, lim…@claudius.uncg.edu (Funj) writes:

> Can anyone give me some numbers on Mazda’s MX6 GT turbo (1989).  Its a
> 2.2 ltr turbo intercooled 12 valve engine.
> I’m looking for hp, 0-60 times, top speed.  

—

The following info is taken from Car & Driver’s July 1989 issue:

hp:     185 (Mazda only lists it at 145, but they are incorrect).
Torque: 190 lb-ft
0-60:   7.0
Top:    133

—————————————————————————–
Seth Mleziva                                  #include <std_dsclmr.h>
s…@cadre.com
Cadre Technologies. Inc.

I’ve heard the rule "one car length for every 10 MPH"
applied to calculate the gap to keep between cars.  Anyone
have a better rule?
Kevin

I just got my bmw 325, rear-ended by some one else, back from the autobody
shop. The repair work was done OK, but I am still worried about what
problems may come up after the accident. Therefore, I am eager to get rid
of it.

If I sell it by myself, the potential buyer must ask of the history which
I have to disclose. Therefore, I am just going to create a lot of
hardships for myself. However, if I traded it into a dealer ship, they
are less likely to question the car as long as it looks good. Anything
happens after that (such as the future owner of the vehicle finds out
about the accident) will be out of my hand.

The only thing is I am going to get much less than selling by myself when
I trade it in; afterall, does this sound like an ideal solution????

Comments are welcome.

Jack

If anyone has comments about 1990-1994 300ZX twin turbo, please be
welcome to send it to me. As I am thinking of purchasing a used one, I
would need all the comments that you have. Thanks

Jack

>> I vaguely remember hearing one time that the CHP does not use radar.  I
>> can’t say that they absolutely never do, but I lived there for almost ten
>> years and never saw a CHP radar trap.  

>While it is true that the CHP does not use radar much, if the city in
>which a highway passes PAYS for the radar equipment and asks the CHP to
>use it, they will.  Otherwise, they won’t.

The CHP patrols regions of Sacramento County and indeed does use radar.
I’ve seen a CHP car setup (with radar) and two motorcycles (to chase the
speeder down) many times.  

Within the CITY of Sacramento, the police department uses radar as well.
I’ve only seen motorcycle officers with radar.

Over the summer I’ve been living in the bay area (Saratoga) and am constantly
seeing city police using radar (especially in Cupertino, along Homestead
between the Lawerence Expressway and Wolfe).

…a Valentine One owner, even if it isn’t as useful as I’d wish.
—
Brian Volkoff        
  volko…@csus.edu (CSU Sacramento) via
  bvolk…@cup.hp.com (HP Cupertino)

I just got a new black ’94 Honda Accord EX coupe about a month
ago, and someone has already keyed it. Safe to say I am just a
*tad* pissed off. Anyway, in this day of technological
breakthroughs, someone is bound to know how to fix key scratches
without painting the car. The scratches have damaged the
clearcoat to some degree, leaving a white streak in the paint. I
got most of the scratch out by buffing and wet sanding, but there
are still parts too deep to take out this way. Is there a way of
covering them up so they can’t be seen without getting real
close? Maybe something like airbrushing, or applying thinned
paint with a toothpick, etc. . . I’ve had a few suggestions about
maybe applying thinned (reduced) OEM paint using an ultra-thin
artist brush, and then sanding down to the surrounding paint
level. The reason I do not wish to paint the car is because it
never looks the same afterwards; I would rather just look at the
scratch. Apparently the reason why you can’t just mask off and
paint a section of a panel is because today’s polyurethane paints
don’t dissolve to form a chemical bond with the surrounding
paint, like enamel and lacquer paints used to. If someone knew
how to get a safe and effective solvent for polyurethane that
would allow them to do this, that would be great! What do I do?
Someone please help me!!    -Sean 72113.2…@compuserve.com
Someone please help me!!

Sean

–
S Stoner
72113.2…@compuserve.com

Ioannis Tsiounis (yian…@ccs.neu.edu) wrote:

:   I would like to ask a few questions on how a suspension works (I
: don’t have my books here:)).

: 1) A harder anti-roll bar on one end, will make that end slide off
: first, or the other? (e.g, a hard bar at the back of a car, will make
: it UNDERsteer, or OVERsteer first?)

A bigger/stiffer bar up front may introduce a push(understeer), in the rear
will loosen the car(oversteer).

: 2) How do adjustable anti-roll bars for street use work? Are they
: adjustable on their links?

I have a Stam-bar in the front of my car. It is adjustable via heim
joints at the ends. The links can adjust vertically, and the ends
can slide along the bar to use more/less of the bar itself.

: 3) How big is the impact of harder bushings at the end of the swy
: bars? In handling and comfort, that is.

IMO, very important. A sway bar is only as good as it’s ability to
react quickly. It can only react quickly when used with good, stiff
bushings. That is with regards to handling. Comfort? What’s that?

: 4) To what extend do stiff shocks substitute for stiff springs? I know
: that stiff springs with mild shocks will work as a trambolin, but what
: about very stiff shocks and mild springs? And if they will work fine,
: what’s the need of stiff springs then?

I don’t like my shocks to do the work of the springs. Stiff shocks
with mild springs try and do just that. Without success. Shocks are
not springs (obviously) and cannot substitute their rate and load
characteristics. If you are concearned with ride harshness, try
a progressive rate spring, Eibach makes some excellent ones.

–

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Steve D’Amelio    
dame…@bedford.progress.com

2.05 intake, 1.71 exhaust, 292 duration, 560 lift, 351ci, 10:1 comp. Arr,arr…
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Is there a mailing list for Ford Probes?  I tried posting to
ford-probe-requ…@world.std.com and got a no user at that address
message back.

Thanks in advance.

What do you do as far as routine maintainence is concerned.  Do you do more
or less than you owner’s manual recommends.  Specific examples would be
appreciated.

Craig

–
Craig Huffnagle
To fly is human, to hover is divine!        ’91 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo

chuff…@dmso.dtic.dla.mil               I don’t think it up, I just type it.