Hi:

I have following problem about my HYDRAULIC CLUTCH:

 o I notice some noise (like the noise when one sitting on a not very
   good matress or the noise of a dry door hinge–sounds "gee gee") when
   disengaging/pushing-down the clutch, which is hydraulic.  

 o And the clutch pedal gives a heavy and sluggish feeling at the
   very final travel if pushed all the way to the floor.

 o However, such noise and feeling only occur when the car is warmed
   up.

 o I also notice that the clutch pedal’s free-play (6 mm) is larger
   than that specified in the owner’s manual (1-3 mm).

I called the dealer and asked whether the clutch needs to be adjusted,
and got a reply that hydraulic clutch can not be adjusted.

Is that true? What do you think the problem might be?

Your reply will be greatly appreciated.  

PS. You can post your reply on the net, a direct or additional email
to me is also desired.  Thanks in advance.

–
Ming XUE (x…@athena.mit.edu)

Mazda contacted myself and the other owner’s involved with vehicle
engine fires in the 1993 RX-7 and has agreed to settle with us
directly.  Finally, after all this time, they have come to their
senses.  I was told late Friday that they wanted to "Put me into a
new Mazda, take care of my expenses, and buy back my car as well as
a number of others."  They said that they would be in contact today.
I will keep y’all informed as the situation progresses.  Unfortunately,
I may not be able to discuss the details of the settlement, but if
there are other owners of 1993 RX-7′s that experienced engine fires,
please have them contact me.  We have found anywhere as high as
10-15 alleged engine fires altogether, including the 3 that were
reported to NHTSA, but getting our names distributed to one
another has been difficult.  People are reluctant to get involved.

Take care netters and thanks again for all the help….

                        Steve Mohl (301)640-2306
                                   (703)573-4271

Mark writes:

        >let your car warm up only
to the point were it has a normal idle speed.

I must take exception to this.  On a carbureted car with automatic choke, it
will take a LONG time before "normal" curb idle is reached.  This is not the
right procedure.  The correct procedure is to start the engine, allow about
30 seconds for the combustion to stabilize and the oil to reach critical
areas, and ease the car down the road.  When you are running the car in the
driveway, you are getting ZERO miles to the gallon, the oil is not warming
and circulating properly, you are sending blowby gasses sailing into the
crankcase to condense into contaminous crap, and other bad things.  Idling is
the LEAST efficient way to warm an engine.  Besides, the oils in the trans,
shocks, diff, etc. all need warmup to work correctly, so it is best to drive
the car as soon as it can be driven without stalling or hesitation.

Regards,
Dan.
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       Does anyone have an online drivers manual for the state of
Pennsylvania???  I lost my hard copy and really don’t feel like driving back to
the police station.  

Thanks a bunch,
Paul Gaspari
(N3PMH)

  Hi,  I need help bad!

  I was coming home and also giving a friend a ride home.  It was
  raining and I was on a road with a few curves.  For some reason, I
  found that I almost missed one.  I was almost at the end of the road,
  I quickly steared to the left (as that was the dir… the road was in)
  and then accelerated so that the car will have traction and make it
  thru the curve.  It was a sucess and there was no harm done.  Other
  than ofcourse a Police Officer who saw this car suddenly accelerate to
  51 miles per hour in a 30 mile per hour zone for 3 seconds and gave me
  a ticket.

  I tried explaining to him what happened partially, he asked for my
  licence and I really thought he was not going to give me a ticket, but
  he came back with one stating I was doing 51 in a 30.  I intend going
  to court as I feel I was trying to avoid an accident and should not be
  ticket for it.

  The officer finally understood what I was saying and asked me to
  appeal it.  Can anyone provide me with some information on cornering
  on a front wheel drive, or direct me to some article that I can carry
  in as evidence/ proof that a car actually does better if it is driven
  rather than it coasting around a bend, and that breaking should not be
  attemted if the road is splipperry?

  I really need you all’s help.

  Motor Trend articles or something.

  Thanks very much!

–

  Best Regards,
  Chamath.                                 –  May the human equation last!
  __________________________________________________________________________
  Internet : c…@ra.msstate.edu      or      cham…@mccool.cbi.msstate.edu
  BITnet   : cnw1@msstate                     home phone  : (601) 324 – 0535
  Snail    : P O Box 727, Miss State          work phone  : (601) 325 – 2089
             MS 39762 – 0727                  fax number  : (601) 325 – 3299
  ————————- End Of Message by Chamath N Wijewardane ——–

Hi:

Does anyone have a compilation of the US Radar Detector legalities state
by state? I am mostly interested in CA, NV and OR, but others would be
apprecited.

Thanks in advance,
Keith Agosta

c…@Ra.MsState.Edu (C N Wijewardane SL) Wrote:

   I need some info on cornering.  I was on a road that had a few curves,
  and it was raining, I suddenly realized that the road was ending (time
  to corner), but a little late, so I quickly turned and accelerated to
  keep the car under control.  I was in a 30 mph zone, and there was a
  police officer that ticketed me for doing 51 in a 30.  I did that only
  during that one corner, and made the corner perfectly… but now I
  want to go to court and appeal this,
If any of you have some info on how I can explain  to a Judge that
  accelerating around that bend is the only reason I made it, please let
  me know.  Perhaps some one has read an article on cornering or
  something.

  The officer accepted that I was doing 51 only at the bend and was at
  30 before and after the bend, so I think I have a pretty good chance
  by saying that it was done to keep the car in control.

  Help …

  Thanks.

In Four-wheel drive / AWD cars, if you slide going into a corner,
counter-steering and accelerating will PULL you out of the slide in most
cases.

I RWD, the only car that I know of where acceleration improves grip in
the corners is the 911 Turbo.  But excessive lift-trottle oversteer is
the main culprit in the 911 Turbo losing grip in a corner.  To counter
the slide, a driver must lightly accelerate to regain control.  I do not
know of any other RWD car where accelerating improves grip in the
corners.

Your car is a FWD.  You must make the argument that by accelerating, you
are PULLing the car out of a slide (like 4WD/AWDs).  I have not read any
articles supporting this little theory but in practice, this theory works
most of the time.

BUT, the arguments against you are:

1 – Accelerating to correct a slide is an aggressive move.  You should
have got off the gas (of course you should never brake in a slide) and
corrected yourself.

2 – More importantly, the speed discreptancy going into and exiting the
corner.  You went into a corner at 30mph..started sliding..accelerated 21
mph..and then slowed down.  This may of happened to you but not likely
believed by a judge who looks at the numbers.

Anyway argue that you were PULLING your car out of a slide and GOOD LUCK!

s5ell…@sms.business.uwo.ca (Steve Elliott)
Western Business School  –  London, Ontario

I was thinking about getting some new high performance suspension parts
(shocks, springs, sway bars, etc…) for my ’88 Integra. I am not sure what
type or brands to get. Any ideas as to what is the best type to get? Any info
will help.

-Dan
—
===========================================================
You have the capacity to learn from mistakes.  You’ll learn a lot
today.
 [=]    [=-=]    [=]
 | |=-=-| c |-=-=| |                   (ea…@cats.ucsc.edu)
_|_|____|_^_|____|_|_

Josh writes:

        >Top speed is a product
        >of rear wheel horsepower

WUH-oh.  does this mean the Neon, the Jetta, the Civic, and all the rest of
the front wheel drive cars out there will sit at stop lights impotently
revving their engines because they only have FRONT wheel horsepower?  ;Ñ) You
must mean DRIVE wheel horsepower.  
(this is not a flame–it is intended to be humorous.)

btw–I would’ve done this too–I hate FWD.  

Regards,
Dan
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"cleaner" is a polite word for "abrasive"  when used together with automobile
"wax."

Dan.
——-
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